To Tusheti: Trekking the Georgia/Chechnya Border (Photo Essay)

 

5 days in one of Earth's final Edens

Atsunta Pass: The view from the top.

Atsunta Pass: The view from the top.

 

Day 1

The Road to Omalo

The Road to Omalo.

Trust: Our driver enjoying one of the dozens of cigarettes he consumed en route to the mountains. Just before heading up this treacherous road, the driver said a little prayer and signalled a cross over his heart.

The Road to Omalo: Apparently one of the world's most dangerous.

The Pass: Angus and I at the top of the mountain road connecting Georgia to the highland villages of Tusheti.

The Pass: Angus and I at the top of the mountain road connecting Georgia to the highland villages of Tusheti.

 

Night 1: Camping Over Omalo

Camp 1: Above Omalo, we found a glorious flat spot where previous hikers had set up shop.

 

 

Day 2

Omalo to Gevelni

Arriving at Dartlo: The small village where we ate lunch on our first full day of hiking.

Headed West: After Dartlo, we followed the road through rocky streams.

Headed West: After Dartlo, we followed the road through rocky streams.

Hidden Hitcher: Angus jumps on the back of a passing 4WD to avoid wetting his feet.

Chesho Appears: Some 15 kilometers walk from Dartlo, the small village of Chesho appeared in the distance. Here, we were menaced by dogs, and enjoyed some final creature comforts before relying on our camping rations for the days ahead.

Chesho Appears: Some 15 kilometers walk from Dartlo, the small village of Chesho appeared in the distance. Here, we were menaced by dogs, and enjoyed some final creature comforts before relying on our camping rations for the days ahead.

The road to Parsma: We continued late into the afternoon, following the road round to Parsma. En route, we received a short hitch, taking us two kilometers closer to town, giving us enough energy to continue on to Girevi that first night.

Camp, night 2. Just shy of Girevi Village. We woke to a tent surrounded by friendly cows.

Camp, night 2. Just shy of Girevi Village. We woke to a tent surrounded by friendly cows.


Day 3

Girevi to Camp 2, at the base of Atsunta Pass. 

Fork in the road: Leaving our camp spot early in the morning, we soon climbed to the junction of the Kvakhistkali and Larovnistskali Rivers, heading northwest up the Kvakhistkali past ancient ruins.

Fork in the road: Leaving our camp spot early in the morning, we soon climbed to the junction of the Kvakhistkali and Larovnistskali Rivers, heading northwest up the Kvakhistkali past ancient ruins.

Purple Haze: Angus walks through a colourful meadow towards the end of Day 2.

Purple Haze: Angus walks through a colourful meadow towards the end of Day 2.

Camping amongst the wildflowers: Before we arrived here, we had experienced a harrowing river crossing. Were in not for a couple of German hikers and their patience on the other side, I'd have slipped in. They called us to the river when we were a h…

Camping amongst the wildflowers: Before we arrived here, we had experienced a harrowing river crossing. Were in not for a couple of German hikers and their patience on the other side, I'd have slipped in. They called us to the river when we were a hundred meters or so away, passing us a rope to tie around our wastes. On my first attempt at crossing, I took a tumble, falling into the roaring chest-deep current. I scrambled to exit the stream, before Angus made his successful crossing. After throwing all my gear across the stream, I hesitantly crossed the roaring current.

 

Day 4

Atsunta Pass basecamp to Konichala

Atop Atsunta Pass. 3400 meters.

Atop Atsunta Pass. 3400 meters.

The ridgeline en route to Shatili.

The ridgeline en route to Shatili.

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